Van Volxem

Saar, Germany

Saar wines were once among the most prestigious in the world, with Wiltingen Rieslings leading the way. Since taking over in 2000, Roman Niewodniczanski has revitalized the van Volxem estate, cultivating exceptional terroir-driven wines from steep vineyards. Today, their meticulous craftsmanship and traditional winemaking techniques produce world-class Rieslings with remarkable aging potential.

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Saar wines were once among the most coveted and expensive in the world, with Rieslings from Wiltingen leading luxury price lists. Since acquiring the estate in 2000, Roman Niewodniczanski has worked to revive this illustrious, albeit somewhat faded, history. The estate now boasts prestigious vineyard sites such as Scharzhofberger, Gottesfuß, and Volz, as well as locations in Ockfen, Saarburg, and Kanzem, primarily consisting of steep slopes on various slate soils, many still using traditional single-stake training and featuring ungrafted vines. Today, 85 hectares of vineyards are cultivated, some with very old vine stocks.

The size of the estate, however, does not guarantee great wines. New plantings focus on ungrafted vine selections to leverage the invaluable gene pool of old Riesling vines. The soil is cultivated organically, with much of the work done by hand, adhering to a true artisanal approach. Yields are kept low to create fine, lively, and expressive terroir wines that showcase the diverse character of Saar vineyards.

Extended contact with the lees, long maturation periods, and minimal intervention are key to producing exceptional Saar wines in the style of the forefathers.

Since 2004, cellar master Dominik Völk—one of Germany's most skilled winemakers—has overseen the wine production at van Volxem. Under his leadership, the wines have gained remarkable refinement and precision year after year. Following the historical practices of Saar wine production, the top wines undergo meticulous hand selection, spontaneous fermentation, and aging in large wooden barrels. The result is a range of racy, finely fruity wines with moderate alcohol, intense radiance, and a profound expression of the soil. These terroir wines are par excellence, exhibiting almost immortal aging potential and a fine-nerved, tension-filled character that reflects the highest levels of refinement and mineral-driven elegance.